It’s done and possibly better than ever before! This is made with all french seams, bias binding on the bottom edge, and a few seams where everything is tucked in before sewn down. You could almost wear this inside out!
This was a wonderful weekend of tennis, brunch with friends, some chores, and sewing!
I got into the zone and so I kind of forgot to take more pictures. Opps.
Sometimes unexpected events come up and things take longer than expected. In these times, it can be hard to make time for sewing while balancing everything else. This is when it’s important to focus on little things. Last night I tackled this placket! These are tough and include a few tricky details. I had about 30 min before bedtime and it was really nice to do just a little bit. I forgot to play music this time. Sometimes it’s just nice to hear the hum of the machine.
After getting everything cut out it was time to start putting things together!
Let’s talk about necklines and collars today! Collars were initially tricky for me but I am starting to feel more and more confident in my abilities. In fact, I am actually pretty proud because it sounds like collar shirts really weird some people out but I find them to be a pretty fun project that includes a nice mix of shapes of fabric and sewing techniques.
Once you complete the back panel and attach the front body pieces, you then have this funny shape that you could wear like a hanging Cape. At this point, you can open and layout the pieces such that you have a nearly straight edge if fabric for the whole neckline. This is where you take the bottom pieces of the fabric and pin them right sides together onto the shirt. This is what you see happening above.
It is easiest to start by aligning the center notches of the collar and back shirt neckline. From there I pin out towards each edge. I also start by pinning down one collar piece and then adding on the second by taking out each pin and layering on the extra piece. This is what you see above.
From here you can sew this down by slowly working along the raw edge and taking out the pins as you go. The pins really help make sure all three pieces stay together and help you avoid any unusual wrinkles.
From here, you sew these little J shapes on the edge of each collar, only through the collar material. You then flip these up from the shirt and press them flat! This makes the neckline of the collar with a nice bit of flappy extra fabric which the outer collar gets attached to.
I have started to skip adding in the collar stays feature of these collars and the nice part about that is that I can choose which side has the best print alignment. I am sure there’s an official technique that I’m missing by doing this, but it does really help me get the best print alignment.
I am continuing to be about on par with getting though the collar approximately on weekends and having the sleeves left to finish up in second and third sessions. Buttons are always usually a 4th session. This will be a long sleeve shirt so it will take longer than the magical Chicago shirt.
Today, sewing music was a little more hardcore and 90s/rock inspired:
System of a Down: Toxicity (very good for threading a bobin!)
For this project, I transitioned back to my existing fabric collection and broke out a small circle print fabric I had purchased with the second laundry disaster. This fabric had survived and it was time to bring it to life!
I started out by trying to get everything I needed together first. This involved a quick trip to F S Fabrics and I finally bought some real fabric scissors and nice buttons.
I will use the white buttons on this shirt.
By the end of the night I was here:
Boy oh boy it is a lot of cutting and honestly, these new scissors are EXACT but also heavy. I may switch back to using paper ones lol.
With all that cutting, something has to pass the time right? I will try to start featuring this more for fun:
I had so many things for myself planned, I wanted to mix in one thing for D before it started to get too cold to wear a few of the summer fabrics we bought in Chicago.
It was time to try and make a short sleeve Liesl + co shirt! This is a really nice feeling cotton/linen and if I remember right it was only $3 a yard on clearance at Fisherman’s Fabrics!
It all came together quite nicely!
I took one picture… here was the inside of the collar about to be flipped right side out and have the pointy part of the collar attached.
I think the back lines up pretty well too!
Last but not least I used bias tape to finish the sleeves and bottom. This really made the shirt hang nicely. You can see the detail on the sleeve (a few of the stripes appear diagonal aka “on the bias”)! This sleeve is rolled up here to show this detail.
Next time I made one of these, I am going to start playing around with making the inner placket and underside of the collar different colors. I see a lot of that on the train and I want to give it a shot. I also ran into my mood-train-friend George the other day and we were talking about techniques to make things fancier. He is working on an awesome reversible grey shawl collar jacket. One day I’ll be like him!
Today I’m going to try and alternate between 1hr of sewing and then 1 hr of chores and by the end of the day I’ll hopefully have completed a lot of both!
I started with kicking off some chores and going through my closet to pick out old clothes that I can donate because I’m just now wearing them anymore. I have a nice pile to send to Goodwill. I also pulled aside a few pieces that I’m going to try and remake into something new!
10:30am time to start sewing! First I will tackle the plackets for the sleeves. These are something that I’ve definitely gotten much better at over time.
11:45 stop and break for chores and lunch and life things… until 4:36pm start sewing again!
At this point, it was time to attach the sleeves to the body of the shirt. I decided to do all of this with french seams which means all of the raw edges will be tucked away within the seam. I think this leads to the garment lasting longer and also being the most comfortable.
5:26 break to cook dinner with the eventual shirt receiver 🙂
8:00 start! It was time to do the cuffs. Oh boy they are always a hurdle because it feels like you’re so close to being done but they require quite a bit of sewing in the tight space at the end of the sleeve. Going slow is key! I think I’ve learned I sew pretty slowly. No lead foot here.
Last for now I hemmed the bottom of the shirt and here’s what we’re looking at as of 10:00pm:
I will do the buttons soon and this shirt will be done!