1920’s Dress

Did I post this already? Not sure what is going on. Either way… here’s an update on my 1920s outfit!

I flew back from San Francisco on a red eye and got in on Saturday – I had to do something to stay awake all day, so why not go fabric shopping to start my 1920’s dress? The weather was horrible on Sunday too so Saturday was a perfect time to go to the city and explore a bit!

D came with me and first we got lunch at Cafe China. It was pretty good and cute. We got Dan Dan noodles, wontons, and cumin lamb. Next time we may order a few things we saw other people order lol – there was a really good looking lobster, pepper chicken, and beef shortribs. yummm

Back to sewing! After lunch we went to Mood! It is always fun and we got to say hi to George. We then went to the wool section and got a theory fabric which will become a nice pair of pants one day.

I also picked up a black silk charmuse and a black silk georgette with a 4 inch fringe trim! I studied a bunch of dresses online and decided to make a flapper shift dress.

Here’s the plan:

Yep I know you can totally tell it will be great!

I will make this with french seams.

Update: I forgot to post this… so here’s how the rest of the project went!

I made the slip! And then I tried to make the sheer outer layer to hang wider over it… but it didn’t look that good. I decided to sew the fringe onto the charmuse and call it a day.

Turns out -this is hard to do!

The fringe is really static-y and heavy and so it started to be very challenging to keep in place. I finally started pinning it everywhere!! And this started to work.

Progress began to slowly be made…

Christmas Party Prep – 1920’s Hat!

My office is having a 1920’s theme holiday party this year and at first I thought I would wear a dress that was “close enough” but I’m starting to rethink how much fun it could be to make a more traditional 1920’s outfit.

I have a few ideas… but for now, I started out by diving into my scrap pile to find a velvet from our Halloween Pirate coats.

I watched a YouTube video and then did a little bit of googling for some style ideas.

I decided to make a test pattern out of paper and then I also made a muslin since I had some leftovers from my Chanel jacket.

how to make 1920 hat women

This was my first hat and I think I really enjoyed making it. I feel like I may be able to make one or two more that could be a little more modern and really nice for winter.

Normally, I feel like I have a pretty big head, but if I make the hat myself, then no one can tell!

1920 hat

I had a few extra scraps of silk charmeuse and the black art-deco square brocade which I was able to use to cover a few buttons, make a ribbon, and the little fan flourish.

Here’s the inside incase that is interesting to you too:

Stay tuned for the rest of the outfit. This will be an interesting project to balance with the Chanel jacket. So far, I think they will balance each other out quite nicely. I’m trying to take making the Chanel jacket rather seriously and it should be quite tailored, whereas the dress I have in mind will be very loose and simple.

More fun to come!

Halloween 2019 Process & Finished Look

I had a wonderful day going to Mood and picking out my fabric for my One Punch Man outfit. It was my first morning officially between jobs and it was wonderful!

I ran into my friend at Mood and he knew the show and was very excited about my costume choice! He saw me when I was getting about 5 yards of yellow cotton and we talked about the best fabric for the gloves and cape. I ended up picking out a polyester stretch fabric for the cape and a thicker jersey for the gloves so that they will hopefully stay on. I will also make some covers for my boots to make them red too.

I’ve realized my zipper should technically be silver but I’m going to have fun with this and not sweat the details that much.

I have combined three patterns to try and do this – D’s vogue pants pattern, and two butterick shirts.

I am not planning to do fancy seam finishes because I just have other stuff to do… like make cardboard robot arms for D

As the week progressed, I continued to chip away at this outfit. There are many pieces and the fit is actually a little complicated because the shirt has to attach directly to the pants!!

First, I made the jumpsuit which I think means I have officially made my first pair of pants for myself!  I then attached the shirt very carefully and then cut out the proper facing for the neckline.

The polyester seemed like it could be tricky so I decided to prick stitch this whole thing. I am actually getting better at this technique and I like the way it looks.

From there it was cape, gloves, and shoe cover time!!!

The cape was pretty easy – but gloves are tricky!!!! I did it “Thanksgiving Turkey” style but at first I actually made the fingers too narrow and had to re sew them. It was an interesting learning experience.

The shoe covers were also pretty easy -my own original idea! I made a tube for my legs and then a flappy circle with another half circle sewn on the bottom. This covered the tops of my shoes but my heels and middle sole of the shoe were exposed so I would still have some traction on the ground.

From here… it was robot armour time for D! This was made the day of the party and I basically took some of the ideas of samurai armour that we saw in the Tokyo Samurai museum and some cosplay googling to make this out of old amazon boxes we stored up and some acrylic paint. Here is the mess that was left behind:

In the final minutes of getting really to leave to the party – the bald cap was NOT working. It was too hard to put on and seemed like it would get hot. D as the continuous source of supportive sanity told me to tear it off before it was too late. I took his advice and did not look back!

Here’s the final look!

One person at the party recognized us LOL but I did not do this for the fame, this costume is exclusively for myself based on the joy that show brings me. D later pointed out that that is truly the most One Punch Man style costume possible hahaha. I did receive many nice compliments about the details and sewing. It was a really fun night and great to see friends!

Happy Halloween!!!!

Dangerous Polka Dots with a Dangerous Pattern

First let’s be clear, this is sewing so everything is fine.

Second! This fabric has been very runny so it is a danger to avoid converting to a pink wardrobe in the future.

Third, I’ve decided to try a new pattern. This could be considered dangerous because it will require new fit adjustments and breaking away from some of my standard designs. I think I’ll be able to make a nice dress if I extend down the length of view D

I also managed to cut everything out and this is always the point where I feel a second of hesitation regarding whether the plan will work out. But! It’s not the time to give up – it’s the time to start sewing!

Tangentical circle shirt -Finished!

It’s done and possibly better than ever before! This is made with all french seams, bias binding on the bottom edge, and a few seams where everything is tucked in before sewn down. You could almost wear this inside out!

This was a wonderful weekend of tennis, brunch with friends, some chores, and sewing!

I got into the zone and so I kind of forgot to take more pictures. Opps.

Little view of the collar and pocket
The cuff!

And the look to go to work!

These are the blue pants!

Tangentical Circle shirt part 3 – little bits of progress

Sometimes unexpected events come up and things take longer than expected. In these times, it can be hard to make time for sewing while balancing everything else. This is when it’s important to focus on little things. Last night I tackled this placket! These are tough and include a few tricky details. I had about 30 min before bedtime and it was really nice to do just a little bit. I forgot to play music this time. Sometimes it’s just nice to hear the hum of the machine.

Here you can see the original pattern piece and the final placket on the left.
Here is an intermediary step where you flip these pieces through the arm slot and then sew them down

Yay!

Tangential Circle Shirt Progress Part 2

After getting everything cut out it was time to start putting things together!

Let’s talk about necklines and collars today! Collars were initially tricky for me but I am starting to feel more and more confident in my abilities. In fact, I am actually pretty proud because it sounds like collar shirts really weird some people out but I find them to be a pretty fun project that includes a nice mix of shapes of fabric and sewing techniques.

Once you complete the back panel and attach the front body pieces, you then have this funny shape that you could wear like a hanging Cape. At this point, you can open and layout the pieces such that you have a nearly straight edge if fabric for the whole neckline. This is where you take the bottom pieces of the fabric and pin them right sides together onto the shirt. This is what you see happening above.

It is easiest to start by aligning the center notches of the collar and back shirt neckline. From there I pin out towards each edge. I also start by pinning down one collar piece and then adding on the second by taking out each pin and layering on the extra piece. This is what you see above.

From here you can sew this down by slowly working along the raw edge and taking out the pins as you go. The pins really help make sure all three pieces stay together and help you avoid any unusual wrinkles.

From here, you sew these little J shapes on the edge of each collar, only through the collar material. You then flip these up from the shirt and press them flat! This makes the neckline of the collar with a nice bit of flappy extra fabric which the outer collar gets attached to.

I have started to skip adding in the collar stays feature of these collars and the nice part about that is that I can choose which side has the best print alignment. I am sure there’s an official technique that I’m missing by doing this, but it does really help me get the best print alignment.

I am continuing to be about on par with getting though the collar approximately on weekends and having the sleeves left to finish up in second and third sessions. Buttons are always usually a 4th session. This will be a long sleeve shirt so it will take longer than the magical Chicago shirt.

Today, sewing music was a little more hardcore and 90s/rock inspired:

System of a Down: Toxicity (very good for threading a bobin!)

Iggy Pop: Passenger

Led Zepplin: When the Levy Breaks

Nirvana: Smells like Teen Spirit

The Tangential Circle Shirt – Part 1

For this project, I transitioned back to my existing fabric collection and broke out a small circle print fabric I had purchased with the second laundry disaster. This fabric had survived and it was time to bring it to life!

Tangential means they only touch each other at one point

I started out by trying to get everything I needed together first. This involved a quick trip to F S Fabrics and I finally bought some real fabric scissors and nice buttons.

I will use the white buttons on this shirt.

By the end of the night I was here:

Boy oh boy it is a lot of cutting and honestly, these new scissors are EXACT but also heavy. I may switch back to using paper ones lol.

With all that cutting, something has to pass the time right? I will try to start featuring this more for fun:

Song 1: Jacqueline Du Pre Elgar Cello Concerto (watch to the end for the heartwarming video of her and the conductor ♡)

Song 2: Zapateada – a favorite a high school friend performed one time -this is not a video of her unfortunately.

Fun crafting times indeed!

Green Square Dress with Bias Detail – Finished!

Here’s my next dress for fall:

After the navy dress, I felt a little hesitation starting this dress. I wanted to make a style that would be unique and push my design skills a little.

I had also been inspired by some of the Dries van Noten dresses which had panels which hung down past the hem. As I made the dress, I also decided to do it without sleeves so I can layer it over a turtle neck.

It was fun to put this together and the fabric is SO SOFT!

I also made sure I used the direction of the stripe threads to make the fabric face the same way throughout the outfit.

First I made a normal dress with a standard back zipper. From there, I played around with the plaacement of the front panel. To add flexibility to the fabric and give it a looser drape, I cut it on the bias (diagonal)

Ta Da!

D is becoming a very good sewing-photo-husband

Last but not least, a great friend was in town from Saskatchewan and we got lunch! Afterward the Equine Immersion Program was having an even called Trail to Zero with NYC police officers and veterans to raise awareness and help prevent veteran suicides. They were riding 20 miles through the city because every day approximately 20 veterans across the country die by suicide. It was very neat to see them have such a unique event and it was great to talk to the people involved.

Also featured – the Tokyo purse
There were probably 30 horses total!

It was a great day! Now it’s time to kick off the process for a few new back to school dress shirts. Stay tuned!

Navy Shirt Dress with Stripes – sewing slowly through tough projects

Here was the game plan! I was so excited to whip through this dress and make a really nice classic look… but… it’s only been going “sew sew” (is that a pun? It’s supposed to be)

The first challenge was that once I was home, I wasn’t 100% sure if I liked this fabric after all…

It felt very classic and sort of like a polo/golf vibe. It’s a cotton men’s shirting fabric. I thought it would be neat to have a striped shirtdress in my wardrobe, but then I started to question if I actually liked it.

At first, I gathered the skirt but it had too much volume. It was not very flattering 😦 there is no picture of this, but beleive me, it happened and wasn’t good.

I tore it off and really thought about a way to achieve a less busy look. After some time, I decided that pleats could be the answer! I hoped the pleats will be flatter yet still break up the stripes and make a nice A line silhouette. It started to get better! I used an inverted box pleat.

Last but not least! I visited F&S fabric store to pick up some unique buttons and made a sash on the bias to finish it up. I also actually hand pick stitched the collar too as inspired by my sewing friend George who showed me a jacket he was working on that used this technique!

Ta Da!

Also I think I’m going to make this a little less anonymous. I dont think it really matters…

With the pleats, it was much easier to align the stripes between the collar, bodice, and skirt! This also makes the sash pop a little bit more since those stripes go diagonally.

Overall, I feel like I achieved the look I set out to create, but I will be a little more discerning with my in-store fabric choices so that I hopefully feel more confident throughout the project.

Last but not least, I’ve learned that the two daughters of my husband’s coworker have visited the blog and are going to be taking sewing classes! Just wanted to say HI! They are about 10 and I really can’t wait to hear about if they like their class!!! They have a very cool Mom for encouraging them too!