Tangential Circle Shirt Progress Part 2

After getting everything cut out it was time to start putting things together!

Let’s talk about necklines and collars today! Collars were initially tricky for me but I am starting to feel more and more confident in my abilities. In fact, I am actually pretty proud because it sounds like collar shirts really weird some people out but I find them to be a pretty fun project that includes a nice mix of shapes of fabric and sewing techniques.

Once you complete the back panel and attach the front body pieces, you then have this funny shape that you could wear like a hanging Cape. At this point, you can open and layout the pieces such that you have a nearly straight edge if fabric for the whole neckline. This is where you take the bottom pieces of the fabric and pin them right sides together onto the shirt. This is what you see happening above.

It is easiest to start by aligning the center notches of the collar and back shirt neckline. From there I pin out towards each edge. I also start by pinning down one collar piece and then adding on the second by taking out each pin and layering on the extra piece. This is what you see above.

From here you can sew this down by slowly working along the raw edge and taking out the pins as you go. The pins really help make sure all three pieces stay together and help you avoid any unusual wrinkles.

From here, you sew these little J shapes on the edge of each collar, only through the collar material. You then flip these up from the shirt and press them flat! This makes the neckline of the collar with a nice bit of flappy extra fabric which the outer collar gets attached to.

I have started to skip adding in the collar stays feature of these collars and the nice part about that is that I can choose which side has the best print alignment. I am sure there’s an official technique that I’m missing by doing this, but it does really help me get the best print alignment.

I am continuing to be about on par with getting though the collar approximately on weekends and having the sleeves left to finish up in second and third sessions. Buttons are always usually a 4th session. This will be a long sleeve shirt so it will take longer than the magical Chicago shirt.

Today, sewing music was a little more hardcore and 90s/rock inspired:

System of a Down: Toxicity (very good for threading a bobin!)

Iggy Pop: Passenger

Led Zepplin: When the Levy Breaks

Nirvana: Smells like Teen Spirit

The Tangential Circle Shirt – Part 1

For this project, I transitioned back to my existing fabric collection and broke out a small circle print fabric I had purchased with the second laundry disaster. This fabric had survived and it was time to bring it to life!

Tangential means they only touch each other at one point

I started out by trying to get everything I needed together first. This involved a quick trip to F S Fabrics and I finally bought some real fabric scissors and nice buttons.

I will use the white buttons on this shirt.

By the end of the night I was here:

Boy oh boy it is a lot of cutting and honestly, these new scissors are EXACT but also heavy. I may switch back to using paper ones lol.

With all that cutting, something has to pass the time right? I will try to start featuring this more for fun:

Song 1: Jacqueline Du Pre Elgar Cello Concerto (watch to the end for the heartwarming video of her and the conductor ♡)

Song 2: Zapateada – a favorite a high school friend performed one time -this is not a video of her unfortunately.

Fun crafting times indeed!

Navy Shirt Dress with Stripes – sewing slowly through tough projects

Here was the game plan! I was so excited to whip through this dress and make a really nice classic look… but… it’s only been going “sew sew” (is that a pun? It’s supposed to be)

The first challenge was that once I was home, I wasn’t 100% sure if I liked this fabric after all…

It felt very classic and sort of like a polo/golf vibe. It’s a cotton men’s shirting fabric. I thought it would be neat to have a striped shirtdress in my wardrobe, but then I started to question if I actually liked it.

At first, I gathered the skirt but it had too much volume. It was not very flattering 😦 there is no picture of this, but beleive me, it happened and wasn’t good.

I tore it off and really thought about a way to achieve a less busy look. After some time, I decided that pleats could be the answer! I hoped the pleats will be flatter yet still break up the stripes and make a nice A line silhouette. It started to get better! I used an inverted box pleat.

Last but not least! I visited F&S fabric store to pick up some unique buttons and made a sash on the bias to finish it up. I also actually hand pick stitched the collar too as inspired by my sewing friend George who showed me a jacket he was working on that used this technique!

Ta Da!

Also I think I’m going to make this a little less anonymous. I dont think it really matters…

With the pleats, it was much easier to align the stripes between the collar, bodice, and skirt! This also makes the sash pop a little bit more since those stripes go diagonally.

Overall, I feel like I achieved the look I set out to create, but I will be a little more discerning with my in-store fabric choices so that I hopefully feel more confident throughout the project.

Last but not least, I’ve learned that the two daughters of my husband’s coworker have visited the blog and are going to be taking sewing classes! Just wanted to say HI! They are about 10 and I really can’t wait to hear about if they like their class!!! They have a very cool Mom for encouraging them too!

The Chicago Shirt

I had so many things for myself planned, I wanted to mix in one thing for D before it started to get too cold to wear a few of the summer fabrics we bought in Chicago.

It was time to try and make a short sleeve Liesl + co shirt! This is a really nice feeling cotton/linen and if I remember right it was only $3 a yard on clearance at Fisherman’s Fabrics!

It all came together quite nicely!

I took one picture… here was the inside of the collar about to be flipped right side out and have the pointy part of the collar attached.

Ta da!

I am quite proud of the alignment of the stripes across the front and onto the sleeves.

I think the back lines up pretty well too!

Last but not least I used bias tape to finish the sleeves and bottom. This really made the shirt hang nicely. You can see the detail on the sleeve (a few of the stripes appear diagonal aka “on the bias”)! This sleeve is rolled up here to show this detail.

Next time I made one of these, I am going to start playing around with making the inner placket and underside of the collar different colors. I see a lot of that on the train and I want to give it a shot. I also ran into my mood-train-friend George the other day and we were talking about techniques to make things fancier. He is working on an awesome reversible grey shawl collar jacket. One day I’ll be like him!

How many poodles can you fit into one outfit? Finished top & surprise finished skirt!

My loud scrap busting sewing continues with the poodle top!

This was the leftovers of the blue squares blouse that was too loud… and I think I’ve transformed it into something else that is also… kind of loud

Here’s where we left off. I was finalizing the fit and it was SO MANY poodles!

This peplum used only a forward facing pleat and not a box pleat. That made it have a little less volume as a box pleat includes two pleats that face in toward each other.

From here, I sewed on the peplum and decided to drop the neckline into a v-neck. I think this makes the outfit a little less busy.

This also inspired me (who are we kidding? D totally said I should just make this) to make a basic black pencil skirt. I used the skirt block we developed at Mood U. That pattern is the ULTIMATE pencil skirt and I’m so happy with it.

I think these go well together. 🙂

Pom Pom Dress Part 3 of 3 + Finished Pictures!

I’ve been a little busier in the evenings than I expected and so it’s taken me a little while to finish up the last pieces of this dress.Over one night, I sewed all of the button holes and this was not the easiest feat because each one was a different size. It wasn’t hard, but I was just very careful about keeping each button in order so that the sizes could be matched to the right size hole. I have a special button hole sewing foot that holds the button to make the exact size and so thankfully this is pretty easy to get right. Sometimes, I’ve noticed if I’m sewing thicker sections of fabric, it can be tougher for the foot to move over some sections. Sometimes that makes the hole a little funny. I only had one of those in this shirt so for now I’ll take it :)On night 2 I was able to sew the corresponding buttons in place and cut open the button holes. At the end of the night I was able to try it on and I pinned the additional pom pom trim in place. I actually think it looks better with the trim!! It’s exciting to feel like my gut and initial idea was right all along. The remaining question will still be whether I also add the trim to the sleeves. I am going to wait until the bottom is done before I officially determine if I should do the arms too.I am thinking I will finish this in my next session. Read below to see the final dress! Continue reading “Pom Pom Dress Part 3 of 3 + Finished Pictures!”

Pom Pom Dress Part 2

To pick up where we left off, I had to attach the skirt, finish the sleeves, add buttons, and then make a call on whether to add pom poms to the hem of the dress.I finished the sleeves and skirt to top attachment and it took a while to find the right placement of the waistline. Additionally, I added two back darts to improve the fit.Now comes the hard question:How crazy does this look?I can’t tell if I am making something cute or a pixie-tourist-nightmare. I keep imagining that I’m on Prject Runway and this would be the time that Tim Gunn or Christian Siriano tells me to use an editing eye. However, when I don’t have the trim in place, this dress seems kind of weird and boring.I am also thinking about adding the trim around the sleeves. Or maybe the edges of the collar? I think the collar would be too much… but the sleeves? Debatable. Unless you think it all is too much. But in NYC are things allowed to be too much?