Pattern Class 6: My own design & the complete Les Claypool Outfit

Ta da! Bodice and skirt together!! Thanks Mood University!

We had brunch with friends today and I knew I wanted to be able to wear this in the spring weather and to my final class. This morning I decided that the skirt wasn’t hanging right and so I tore out the seams on both sides all the way to the hip and I re-measured and took in the sides to further taper the skirt. I was listening to a podcast and I kept making one more fix…and one more fix… Suddenly our train was leaving the station in 30 min and I hadn’t showered! Thankfully I had just finished the last last adjustment and we rushed through getting ready and headed out the door. We made it to lunch and after I jumped on the train to class.

All week I had also been trying to figure out what to try to use to design in my final pattern class…

Continue reading “Pattern Class 6: My own design & the complete Les Claypool Outfit”

Pattern Class 5: Terrifying (& Exciting) Pattern Modifications for the Best Fit!

So as mentioned in the last Pattern Class 5 summary, my bodice had some gapey arm holes and it had to be adjusted further!

At first I tried low risk (and ineffective) solutions by trying to take in the sides at some angles to get rid of some of the fabric. After a few tries, it was time to use the techniques we learned in class – why did I wait?

Continue reading “Pattern Class 5: Terrifying (& Exciting) Pattern Modifications for the Best Fit!”

Pattern making Class 4: testing the bodice pattern

I’ve started to sew the bodice based on the MoodU bodice blocks. I’m using the same Carolina Hererra 2012 Mushroom Print fabric.

As I started to sew it together…

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Pattern Class 4 of 6

Today is a very special pattern class. First we are going to make the back bodice and then we’re heading to a friend’s wedding! I am lucky I get to squeeze both in!

I did not want to wear my wedding clothes to class so it seemed like the perfect opportunity to take the Les Claypool skirt out for a spin! I got quite a few compliments and one salesperson at Mood recognized it. The shirt & coat are not homemade… yet. (I also need to find a way to take this type of picture and not look like a instagram obsessed person)

I have been trying to sew a new bodice at home using fabric from a store I discovered in my neighborhood! They had lots of interesting prints and good deals. I picked up some cotton I could use to test my bodice pattern block. So far, it’s coming out too big again. I think I am cutting way too big of a seam allowance. I will try to learn in class.

Post class update:

Class was fun! We actually went through different steps to make the back of the bodice compared to the front. I need to ask next time why. I am really glad that they give us all the notes because this means that I’ll get to repeat it in the future.

At the end of class I took my pattern from last weekend and laid it out ontop of the new one. They match pretty close!! Its interesting to see that the class one is slightly wider and had a much deeper shoulder angle.

Below is a picture of the new dress using my homemade back bodice pattern. This was taken in a ton so it will be great to see how this compares to the version completely made via instructions in class.

I think I may make one new dress shirt for D in the meantime… he tore an old store bought shirt the other day so it would be nice to give him a replacement.

The Les Claypool Skirt – Pattern Class Part 2 Project

So there’s room to improve my first try at pattern design, but I don’t want to blame my pattern block… I think I may have accidentally cut too much extra fabric for the hem and seams because it was originally quite wide. Either way, I slowly but surely took in the skirt once I tried on the first version.

I think I did the zipper quite well! It should lay nice and flat. Next time I think I will move on to invisible zippers. Those will be even a little nicer.

I used the new binding technique on the top waistline so that it lays nice and flat. I really like it and I will be sure to thank the man that gave me that tip!

Looking forward to making a matching bodice! In the meantime this skirt will be great for spring!

Pattern Class 2 of 6

I went to pattern making part 2 and it was tons of fun!

I met the very tall man – he is 6’6″ and he did make those pants last week! I asked him and he seemed to be happy I noticed. Today he had some wonderful canary yellow corduroy slacks! It was great to meet him.

I also met a man that works at Eileen Fischer – we started talking about fabric dying and he showed me this flower fabric bundling technique where you steam the fabric with metal to oxidize it and that locks in the colors. I have a lot of googling to do…

Another lady in the class is getting back into pattern design – she has worked in the industry in the past. Another guy who sat by me did not have experience in the fashion industry but rather he liked making fun costumes! He has made lots of pantaloons and fluffy collars. It was really fun to talk to him! I am going to slowly meet everyone in this class and learn from all of them.

Today we made a skirt block which is the fundamental basic pattern you could take to make a skirt. I double checked all my measurements at home with D (my husband… can’t take the time to write that every time).

The class moved at a really nice pace – you did not want to be late because I can see how you can fall behind. It is interesting to see a room of New Yorkers who deal with all sorts of trains make it on time to something. I have been rushing out of my house but successful so far.

Our main instructor is super friendly and pretty funny although the people in the class are a little shy (or I am loud). He told us at one point we could talk among ourselves but people were so quiet I asked him if he could tell us more about himself. He was born in Australia and then moved to London to work in fashion. He’s worked in fashion for over 20 years at different womenswear and menswear houses. He also went on project runway!

It was very interesting to learn about the ways that we would take our body measurements and divide them up to make front and back panels and adding in pleats. Benjamin shows us how to do everything with a big projector.

This is so great so far. After class I went to pick up a cotton to test the new pattern and see how the fit works. Of course they had an awesome Carolina Herrera mushroom print O.o I’m so excited to make a pencil skirt and hopefully matching bodice after next week! Since I have a Kanye dress, I think I will have this next one inspired by Les Claypol.

But! That’s not all! A staff member G cut the fabric for me down on the basement floor. He has helped me before and is quite nice. I left and went to Fedex to mail the veil to my cousin (ahh fingers crossed that works out). Cut to 30 min later when I’m at my train station waiting to come home and he also walked over to my area!! I did a stare of “Is that the guy from mood?” And he recognized me too! I waved and we started talking. We live in the same neighborhood. I told him that I could leave him alone if he was tired from a big day of work, but he said thanks and that he was more than willing to talk! He has worked in design and is super into modern clean designs for womenswear but it seemed like more of a specialty in menswear. We talked about all sorts or serging techniques and how he makes his own cardigans. Also sometimes when he makes a waistband he just let’s the inner edge lye flat with a bound edge. It takes out some of the bulk. Genius! I can’t wait to try this on the wild pants and the upcoming Les Claypol dress. It was so nice to talk to him and hear about all of his design tips and experiences! I was wearing the fall skirt and my tokyo purse and he was really nice and encouraging. I will be sure to try and say hi the next time I’m at Mood!